I was heartened by the response I have got through mymysore.com . Was surprised people seemed interested in life in rural Japan.
I live in a little town called Tsuruoka in the Yamagata prefecture of Japan. In case you are trying to find it on a regular home atlas, I suggest you look for Sakata or Yamagata. If Sakata is marked, we are a little south of it, if Yamagata, we are to the west, almost on the coast of the sea of Japan. This is a tiny little place and the reason we are here is that my husband is teaching at the university here.
We have been here since late March '06. Before we actually packed up from Singapore to come here, we'd done a lot of research on the Internet, but nothing really prepared us for the reality that is small-town-Japan. The first day was hilarious. After a very tiring journey to get here, we decided to get some fresh air and went for a walk to the town park. It was quite cute to see traffic slowing down to take a closer look at us. I am fairly sure we are the darkest skinned people in this corner of the world. People stopped and spoke to us asking us where we were from etc etc...
On a short holiday in Mysore before we came to Japan, we did a brilliant thing by taking Basic Japanese lessons from a teacher near my home. So we were able to understand one word in every twenty, and with our inseperable dictionary were able to make sense of some things.... after that there was always 'Wakarimasen'... Japanese for 'I don't understand'. To date I have met perhaps 4 or 5 people outside the university who speak any English. I truly appreciate the schooling system in India where a person is capable of managing anywhere in the world with a good knowledge of English. The Japanese lack that edge which makes them un-competetive outside their borders.
On our very first day here, we went to a supermarket to get some milk and bread. After seeing us struggling with our dictionaries, one store assistant brought over another assistant who could speak English. The first thing he asked us was whether we were Indians. That was a bit of a surprise. Then he told us that he had visited India a few years ago, and how he loved South India, and how he loved the grand 'Maharaja Palace' at Mysore. I was stumped. What are the chances of meeting someone who has actually been to Mysore on my very first day in a new town? He too was quite thrilled, and after helping us find what we wanted, said with a big smile '
Indra Bhavan oota chennagide. Anna saaku'. Wow... Apart from a very atrocious accent, I actually understood what he said.
Life here can get quite dificult for vegetarians. Since this is a small town so far in the north, vegetable choices are very limited. For the first time in my life, I saw beans and ladies-finger sold in packets of 6 and 10... Now what is a south Indian vegetarian supposed to do with just 8 or 10 beans?? Vegetables are extremely expensive here. And the variety is very very limited. For fresh vegetables, we get only potatoes, onions, carrots, sometimes ' karela', capsicum and brinjals. Sometimes we can get ladies-fingers red pumpkin. Big supermarkets, have frozen beans and peas, and if we are very lucky cauliflowers.
So it can be challenging for someone who's idea of vegetable shopping, while growing up, was to take a scooter to Devaraja market and buy at least 2 different vegetables for each day of the week! And of course, we don't get coriander-leaves, curry-leaves and green chilis at all! So one can just imagine how uninspiring thili-saar, huli or any typical home dish can get.
We are adjusting now. At least we stopped getting a mild heart attack whenever we saw vegetable prices. Now we make basic conversation whenever asked something, though we still resort to 'wakarimasen' quite a bit.
I'd be glad to answer anymore questions on life in Japan!
Thank you for posting my email to you. Let me take the liberty of posting a few entries from my blog. I am sure this will prove quite amusing.
Regards, Vidya
A very long weekend
In this corner of the world, National Day, Constitution Day and Childrens Day happen on successive days. Of course there was the Emperor's (not this one, the last one) Birthday too last week. So it's been one long stretch of holidays. And the weather being what it is, was rather inclement.
So here we are. Three days of being stuck indoors. Why didn't we go out somewhere?? Because we, strangers that we are to the system, forgot to draw cash before the onset of the holidays. So off I went to the ATM to draw cash and head to the next town to watch a movie. I got to the ATM, and couldn't get in. I tried the door, it wouldn't slide open. I took out my ATM card and waved it under the sensors (what that could've done to help, I still don't know), stood back a step and then tried the door... basically tried all weird things to get it to open.
Finally, a lady who was walking by took pity on me and told me that it was a holiday and that the ATM was closed. I wasn't sure that I'd heard her right, and my Nihongo (Japanese lauguage) still doesn't extend to asking intelligent questions. So we decided to cycle to the bank itself and try the ATM there. On our way we passed 2 other ATMs and none of them would let us in. By this time we had a very bad feeling. We got to the bank, and there was this very nice notice in very formal Japanese. All we understood that the 3rd-5th were marked in red, and here too we couldn't enter the ATM. Which implies that when the bank doesn't work, neither does the ATM. And this being Japan, credit cards are next to useless.
Lessons learned in life: In Tsuruoka, not only do the ATMs close by 9pm, they are closed on all public holidays and have reduced working hours over the weekends.
Someone really has to explain the concept of an ATM to the banks here. Isn't ATM supposed to be about AnyTime Money??
I've marked the next long holiday, and plan to be ready before the ATM's shut down for their siesta!
Even after having lived in Tsuruoka for over a month, some of the culture shocks haven't eased. The economic shocks are much lesser now (the prices here scared me silly initially) but some of the systems still leave me rather dazed.
For all its technological advances, Japan truly marches to the beat of some medieval drummer.
For example, security measures in a small apartment in a nice neighbourhood... the planning is awesome without any wasted space. And when anyone rings the doorbell, that activates a security camera, so I can see who rings, and if its someone who wants donations, send them away without opening the door.
The basic washing machine we bought has so many awesome controls (none of which I can operate for the simple reason that it's all in Japanese) and program options.
When we first came here, we were so impressed by the (of all things) loos here. The control panels on them are awesome. The guest house where we stayed for the first ten days had this totally awesome powder-room with a control panel with 31 buttons. I could set the temperature of the potty seat. And if my husband left it up as usual, I just pressed a button to let it down. I could set the temperature of the water in the bidet, the pressure and the direction too. Then there was the air temperature settings, and air pressure. And the volume settings of the flush!!!!!
Even the bathroom was a hands free operation! Imagine setting temperature of water through an electronic panel. No fiddling iwth the hot and cold taps till you get hte right temperature.
Then we come to the paperwork, and that's when the frustration starts.
I get my health insurance card. And naturally its in a bunch of incomprehensible (as yet) squiggles. Hey, I see some numbers.... and they look familiar. Ok.. that's my date of birth. But they got that wrong... the month and day are alright, but the year is way off target. So there we go to AS-san (our hand-holder-in-chief) and point out the error to her. She checks and tells us that it's correct. Huh... uh... actually I was born in 75, and my Insurance card reads 50.
So that's when we get our first jolt. You see, out here they borrow only the day and month from the Gregorian calendar. The year is the year of that era. Era?? Yes, era. The year of what emperor's reign. So I was born in the 50th year of the Showa emperor's (Emperor Hirohito) reign and Arun in the 46th. Aditi's was born in the 15th year of the current emperor's reign. So her year of birth is Heisei 15. The current year is Heisei 18.
This gets quite confusing when one goes to buy a used car. We saw this car we liked, and under the Japanese symbol for year was the number 8. Brilliant as we were we assumed that it was a 8 year old car. Of course not. The year of manufacture was Heisei 8. We missed that one little character somewhere... so it was back to square one of the great car hunt.
The banks too use some thoroughly antiquated systems. First shock we got when we went to open an account: 'joint account?? Nan desu ka? (what's that?) Sigh.... Checkbook? Nan desu ka? .. and here we gave up, and just said whatever and got on with the procedure.
And here's the kicker, one doesn't use a signature on bank and other financial instruments. One uses a chop, with name carved in Kanji (or katakana in case of foreigners like us)... And God help you if you ever lose the chop. Replacing it is as simple as brain transplant.
And did I mention that ATM's close around sunset, and Credit Cards are not used except at very large stores and hotels?
The worst are the looks I get when I tell anyone I am a vegetarian. Almost a look of utter pity.
Now I know what 'Stranger in a strange land' really means. When in Rome one does as the Romans do.
These Romans are crazy.... (I've been reading too much Asterix)